The Gauntner Gauntlet – Takatenjin’s “Soul of the Sensei”

From Shizuoka Prefecture.
 Junmai Daiginjo.
SMV: N/A Acidity: N/A 

Takatenjin “Soul of the Sensei” Junmai Daiginjo is bursting at the seams with backstories, legacy, and drinking appeal. It is hard to know where to start.

First off, it is brewed by Doi Shuzo in Shizuoka Prefecture, one of my favorite prefectures in all of Japan for sake. Half of Mt. Fuji sits in Shizuoka; it arguably has the best green tea, the best wasabi, and the best unagi (eel) in Japan. Clearly, the water is outstanding. Historically, it was more known as a place to pass through when on the road between Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto rather than a destination. But the level of their sake took off in the late 70s with the support of the prefecture that led to several technical developments.

Next, their toji scene. In 1968, a toji from the Noto guild in Ishikawa, Shokichi Hase, waltzed in and took over at Doi Shuzo. He later became so storied as to be dubbed one of the “Four Guardians of Heaven” of the Noto Toji Guild, and he remained at Doi Shuzo, helping its sake take on near cult status during his long tenure.

Also, many toji tend to keep their secrets to themselves, insisting that their proteges watch and learn and “steal” the secrets of the craft. Not this guy! Hase Toji taught his successor openly and thoroughly so that when he stepped down due to his advanced years, the quality of his sake remained as it always had been.

Hase Toji passed away in 2009, but the Soul of that great Sensei remains alive and courses through all sake made at Doi Shuzo.

And that includes Takatenjin Junmai Daiginjo. Brewed with Yamada Nishiki and a Shizuoka-only yeast, it is one of the most quaffable, enjoyable sakes I know. Prominent melon and banana aromas, and a silk texture with fairly restrained acidity tie a complex package together neatly.

Perhaps 20 years ago, I brought a bottle back to my parents’ home in Ohio. My father, who basically did not drink, decided to humor me and we sat down to just yak with a bottle of that sake on the table. Very soon it was about three-quarters gone, at which juncture he stopped mid-sentence and said, “this is really good!” That moment justified my entire sake career.

Your results may vary, but one thing is for sure: you will enjoy this sake on any occasion you choose to drink it.